August 31, 2010
Perfume Review: DKNY Delicious Night for women (200
, Donna KaranPerfume Review: DKNY Delicious Night for women (200
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Loreal Panoramic Curl Mascara
Colorstay makeup
Those who have been selected as winners get a personalized makeup tutorial- plus all of the items used in the tutorial, including brushes (brand new.
) Hope you get some ideas from Jessica's bridal look.
Wishing you all the best, Jessica.
@Fresissui Do you find that it works the same, or better, than Revlon's colorstay, or the Rimmel longlasting foundation.
I stopped wearing foundation all together for about 10 yrs cause it always looks cakey and broken down so fast,
Colorstay makeup
Loreal Lash Architect Mascara
The best drugstore brand for lengthening is Loreal Telescopic mascara.
Definitely give that a try.
August 19, 2010 at 6.
L'Oreal Lash Architect in either charcoal black or waterproof black
Loreal Lash Architect Mascara
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New Video: Drake Feat. Lil Wayne- “Miss Meâ€
Loreal Double Extend Mascara
L'Oreal Double Extend Beauty Tubes Mascara has been around for quite sometime now, but is new to me.
I have been using this mascara for the past two months and I am quite pleased.
It is a double sided, two step mascara with a primer on
Loreal Double Extend Mascara
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Jean Claude Ellena did me a favor back in the late 1980’s when he created a scent that smelled of tea. Tea cannot be extracted into a fragrance like other notes, so Ellena had an idea that he could create a scent that smells like tea; the leaves, the water and a little bit of earthy smoke, and so he made it. Ellena took his scent to Dior, who focus-grouped the smell to death and eventually turned it down. Then Ellena took his tea scent to Yves Saint Laurent, who also turned him down. Ellena ended up at Bvlgari, who thankfully had the good sense to understand this was groundbreaking. Bvlgari took Ellena’s tea scent, made it into a limited edition which sold only in their boutiques. Jean Claude Ellena’s first tea scent, Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert was a huge success and now just about every perfume house has a scent which centers on tea.
I tire of most light summery citrusy-green scents but the one note I can never have enough of is Tea. Maybe that’s because the tea note is extremely fleeting and I am forced to run after it like a stealthy butterfly never getting caught in my net. I mentioned this to Laurie Erickson, perfumer at Sonoma Scent Studio, and she confirmed for me that the tea note is an extremely fleeting one, an aroma that is just not going to linger for a long time. Nevertheless, unlike other fleeting notes, the tea note remains worth chasing for me.
I’ve been on a tea quest for quite some time so I thought I’d gather my findings together to assist others who might also be on the same journey. While I really love a good number of these fragrances, I’m still searching for the Perfect Tea Scent. This is part of the reason why I mentioned my quest to Erickson at SSS, I thought maybe someday she could create it. Sonoma Scent Studio fragrances all have excellent longevity on me, so if anyone can do it, I figure Erickson can. What I’m looking for is a strong black tea scent, with hints of fruits and florals. Imagine opening a fresh tin of passion fruit jasmine tea, or something along those lines. I love the smell of earthy black tea leaves, but I also love the mixture of fruits and florals with a touch of smoke.
..In the meantime, here are the tea scents I have:
L’Artisan Tea for Two: gourmand tea scent. Tea for Two is a fragrant cup of tea with milk and honey. It is to be worn by the fireplace in the winter months. For some reason, Tea for Two makes me a little nauseous; I think it’s the combination of lemon in this cup of milky sweet chai tea.
L’Artisan The Pour Un Ete: chilled jasmine tea with a wedge of lemon and sprig of mint. The Pour un Ete is among the few fragrances I genuinely love from L’Artisan. L'Artisan, for me, is a house which makes far too many fleeting fragrances, but I forgive them with The Pour Un Ete because we know the aroma of tea just doesn’t stick around no matter who creates it. I previously reviewed The Pour un Ete last year, and it remains a beautiful summertime tea staple for me. The tea note fades but what is left is an exquisite airy jasmine.
Dior Escale a Pondichery: black tea with cardamom and jasmine was a great idea but somehow this doesn’t live up to its description at all. I love Escale a Portofino and don’t even get annoyed with its fleeting nature because, well, it’s supposed to be light and short lived. I very much looked forward to Pondichery’s release last year but I find this one falls flat. It does smell of black tea with Indian spices and jasmine at the start but it quickly morphs into a vaguely citrus aroma with very little charm. If I wanted citrus I’d just wear its sister Escale a Portofino. If I want tea I’ll just wear something else.
Bvlgari tea trio: this consists of 3 fragrances, a green tea (au The Vert), a white tea (au The Blanc) and a red/roobios tea (au The Rouge). I prefer the red tea scent because I find it unique as far as tea scents go. Au The Rouge is a little fruitier and nuttier than the other two teas from Bvlgari. I do think it smells of roobios/red tea, which is a unique scent. I previously reviewed Bvlgari Au The Rouge because it’s my favorite of the tea trio.
Elizabeth W Sweet Tea: This is almost the scent I’ve been looking for except it doesn’t have enough fruits and florals. Elizabeth W Sweet Tea is a tall glass of summertime iced tea with a big spoonful of liquid sugar. You know you can’t mix granulated sugar into a glass of iced tea, right? Granulated sugar doesn’t mix and falls to the bottom of the glass. Mix in some (preferably flavored) liquid sugar and you have a delicious glass of summertime sweet tea. Elizabeth W brings sweet iced tea to us in a wearable fragrance.
Parfumerie Generale L’eau Rare Matale: “mate” is a type of tea common in South America which has a distinctly toasted quality. PG’s Rare Matale reminds me the most of CdG’s Sweet Nomad Tea (coming along shortly) but it’s more wearable for me. PG Rare Matale is a mildly sweet citrusy tea scent that is extremely natural and realistic and smells of this mate type of tea. This one works best for me layered on top of other scents which aren’t strong enough on the tea note. This is a tea jumper cable of sorts.
Aroma M Geisha O-Cha: this is a zesty powdered tea scent. I don’t mean powder as in baby powder, I'm referring to instant powdered tea in a packet as opposed to loose leaf tea. This smells like a packet of Lipton iced tea with a lemon. It’s still zesty and nice and if you spray it on your clothes it will stick around for the afternoon. Instant-tea-packet might not sound appealing but I actually find O-Cha quite nice.
Creative Universe Te: greenish oolang tea with hints of osmanthus and faint florals. CU Te is a relaxing tea scent, with a fresh citrusy quality that fades into a pleasant subdued floral. The tea note and celery note are interesting in the way the PG and CdG tea scents are but it’s immensely more wearable and typical instead of just plain weird.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz The Vert: brisk, realistic green tea. Longevity is decent if you spray liberally. DSH The Vert is closest to CU Te but it’s much more focused on green tea with less florals and citrus. If you are looking for a straight green tea scent this is the most exact I have ever smelled. It’s earthy green tea with an overall herbal quality and a touch of smoke.
Comme des Garcons Sweet Nomad Tea: another “mate” type tea scent but this one is truly weird. It’s more about sweet mint sprigs and very tannic tea. Sweet Nomad Tea is appealing if you like strongly herbal scents but it does also have a brisk tea note, as promised by the name. This won’t make much sense but Sweet Nomad Tea is sweet in the most unsweetened way. It’s actually quite interesting and unique but not something I normally wear. CdG Sweet Nomad Tea is perfect about 1 time per year when I get in the mood for something herbal and non-perfumey. Actually Sweet Nomad Tea smells a lot like fresh pot (aka marijuana, hemp, weed, whatever you call it) once it dries down.
CB I Hate Perfume Russian Caravan Tea: This, like a lot of the CB scents (and prior to CB, Demeter scents) is almost an exact replica of a cup of tea. It is a strong black cup of tea, with a dash of bergamot and a hint of smoke. It is really nice and lingers longer than most, I just need to layer it with something else in order to make it read as a perfume on me. Layering this (and I hardly ever layer) with Nez a Nez Vanithe after Vanithe loses its tea quality is quite nice.
Nez a Nez Vanithe: Vanilla Tea. This reminds me of Loulou with an herbal tea note at the start. Overall it’s very sweet and the opposite of most of these other brisk, refreshing tea scents. Vanithe was introduced to me by a kind POLer otherwise I would probably never have tried it. This is the most perfumey, sweet and synthetic smelling of all my tea scents in this list but it is actually one of my top favorites. The initial verbena, rosemary and Earl Grey tea notes are wonderfully balanced with the sweet vanillic base notes. The top notes vanish after awhile and even though I’m left with only the memory of them I do enjoy the sweet slightly woody-honey-vanilla base.
Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille: someone, somewhere, called this an iced tea fragrance which suddenly struck me as the reason I love it so much. Le Chevrefeuille is honeysuckle iced tea and absolutely gorgeous. Honeysuckle, as an exact note, might otherwise be awfully sweet and cloying but this sparse, fresh, hesperidic and slightly brisk tea/honeysuckle scent is genius. Please pray with me that this hasn’t been or isn’t about to be reformulated.
Annick Goutal Duel: a beautiful yet thoroughly too fleeting tea/citrus/smoke scent. Duel is almost perfect if only it lasted longer than 20 minutes. It’s not just that the tea note vanishes; the problem is that the whole scent vanishes for me. But it is an awesome 20 minutes.
Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate: grassy meadow of mild mate (tea). LV Yerbamate is less about tea and more about the softest green meadow and newly mown hay. It’s a bucolic country scene. I really should wear this more.
Do you know of some good tea scents that I don’t have listed? Please tell me! I’m always hunting for tea... Ask The Perfumer - Sunday, August 8, 2010
Ask The Perfumer - Sunday, August 8, 2010
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Beauty Skin Care
Loreal Panoramic Curl Mascara
we have 44 sticks of the Loreal Panoramic Curl Mascara (Black) for sale.
watsons is selling it at $14.
but we're selling them at only $11(nt including postage n handling fee) per stick
Loreal Panoramic Curl Mascara
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August 30, 2010
I went to my first Prom on Sunday night. No not an American prom with big dresses and etiquette I don't understand but a BBC Prom. These Proms, promenade concerts, are a summer series of recitals and performances of usually classical music culminating in the last night of the Proms: the much televised evening of an almost debauched level of flag waving and group singing which your head might tell you is silliness but which can make this lefty smile- even if it's just because surely singing at the top of your voice is much the best way to express a bit of nationalism if you want to do so. The first Prom was in 1895 and the season has been growing steadily ever since then.
I don't consider myself to be knowledgeable about classical music but that doesn't mean I don't appreciate it- and I appreciate it more and more as I get older. I was certainly visiting as something of a novice though- and partly for the experience of a Prom- to be one of those people outside the Royal Albert Hall every summer evening, to take part.
What I found was rather touching. There were people like me of course- also uninitiated, or perhaps going to accompany an enthusiast- and there is an impressive amount of information for newbies; a lovely programme with background on the Proms and the programme of the day, the composers chosen and why, the artists performing, the stories behind the compositions and how they related to each other.
There were also many seasoned Prommers, ripe for people watching. My favourites were the couple who chose not to stand but to lie down in the promenade (read standing) area, take their shoes off and make little pillows from their sweaters to enjoy the show in full comfort (and why not); the little girl who sat on her Daddy's shoulders for the whole of the first half in total silence seemingly gripped by Mozart despite being not more than four years old; the chaps down at the front who knew to shout 'heave. ho' when the grandest of grand pianos was carried in like a magnificent lady in a sedan chair.
If you are interested I saw the evening programme listed here. The pianist who played with the BBC orchestra for the Mozart concerto was Louis Lortie and he was a joy to watch- he has the face and the hands and fingers of a man consumed with love for what he does- how wonderful to find that thing and then to have the gift of being so very good at it. He made me wish again that I had taken those piano lessons my Father offered me.
I am very far from an expert but I thought the Messiaen was too much of a mixture of quiet peace and unsettling percussion- I understood he was trying to show Mozart's life was like that but I'd have preferred something less jarring for the man who gave us so much beauty; the Mozart delightful in every way; the Parry elegy for Brahms full of drama and with quite a filmic quality- and the Brahms was a a lovely surprise- again filled with action and somewhat soundtrack like, stirring, emotive, dark and impressive.
I don't know how well publicised the Proms are too tourists but as an example of something peculiarly British it would be hard to better. I loved being a visitor to that world for an evening. It is also another example of why, if the battle cry comes to save the BBC I will be there. The Proms might not be your thing but the coverage is exemplary and gives the opportunity to people to see and hear world class performance every night for very little (and if you can't get to London you can listen on Radio 3).
Proms memorabilia picture from the BBC website here.
New Video: Drake Feat. Lil Wayne- “Miss Meâ€
New Video: Drake Feat. Lil Wayne- “Miss Meâ€
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concealer
concealer
Borghese Skin Care
Like several of our romantic spas of Italy do, the luxurious Borghese skincare product line utilizes the healing waters of Tuscany.
Beauty products from Borghese are always sumptuous and from the earth, and their "classic favorite,"
Borghese Skin Care
Loreal Double Extend Mascara
I first purchase this mascara at CVS for about $10 hoping for the best.
Prior to this I have been a dedicated L'oreal Voluminous Mascara fan for years.
This double extend mascara will stay on for as long as you don't wash it off and
Loreal Double Extend Mascara
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tawanda smith commented on The Showstoppin' Best Friends Who Started Show Stopper Shoes! i love shoes and bags would start a business of my own,carry 3 pair of shoes in the car where ever i go!
Comments: 0
By Kilian- Love And Tears (Surrender)
By Kilian- Love And Tears (Surrender)
Concealer makeup
Indian e-magazine based on Beauty, Health, Fitness and Home for today\
Concealer makeup
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August 29, 2010
Love Boat: smell bent Leisure Cruise Part Deux
Love Boat: smell bent Leisure Cruise Part Deux
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The Safe Cosmetics Act 2010The Safe Cosmetics Act 2010
IMAN Second To None Cream To Powder Foundation
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Almay natural makeup
Just like the way Audrey Hepburn's make up is in Breakast At Tiffany's.
August 22, 2010 at 1.
You should try a light green.
maybe even a golden brown looks good.
i use a light green, and sometimes an extremly light purple.
try out a natural light brown shade.
August 22, 2010 at 1.
brown & purple are ur best bet - the brown will look really nice & natural, whereas the purple will make
Almay natural makeup
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August 28, 2010
Hi Anya,
Been thinking about you and your Mom.
I wonder if you can help me with a chocolate scent I'm working on. I made a simple chocolate scent. And decided to make something a bit more complex.
I wanted to use Hazelnut CO2 in my blend, and I used about 20 drops, in a mixture of others. It's just not really showing up.
My question is, do you need to use more of a CO2 especially when using some heavy hitters, such as cocoa abs?
Thanks!
Mediterranean Escapades
Loreal Lash Architect Mascara
L'Oréal Lash Architect in Midnight Black is pretty good... would probably be amazing on your already-long-and-curly lashes.
It gets better after a few uses as well, once the formula thickens a bit
Loreal Lash Architect Mascara
Beige makeup
A Beyonce video Makeup Tutorial, similar to the look in her music video Sweet Dreams.
com One of her natural but glamorous looks.
Smashbox Foundation Primer, Rimmel Natural Beige foundation, Rimmel Smokey Blue
Beige makeup
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Tommy Hilfiger will launch Loud, a new duo of fragrances "built around a music proposition and aimed at Gen-Y users"; Loud For Her and Loud For Him also tie into Hilfiger's Get Loud denim campaign...
Out Playing
Out Playing
Http://www.macys.com
Today San Diego Comic-Con International kicks off four days of star-studded exhibitions and movie and TV panels showcasing the best of comedy, action, sci-fi, and fantasy.
With appearances by Ryan Reynolds, Blake Lively
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Benefit makeup
A lot of environmentalists have long been advocating the concept of going green and caring for Mother Nature
Benefit makeup
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August 27, 2010
August 17, 2010
The Safe Cosmetics Act 2010
by Robert Tisserand
The Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 (SCA 2010), now before the House of Representatives, is an inappropriate and seriously flawed attempt to make cosmetics safer. You can read the full text here. The thinking behind it is identical to a bill that was proposed (and defeated on March 1st this year) in Colorado (see Tunnel vision). Both are the brainchild of a group including the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (SFSC) and the Environmental Working Group (EWG) which are in turn linked to the Skin Deep database. SCA 2010 is being opposed by groups representing small businesses such as Opposesca.com, the Indie Beauty Network and Personal Care Truth which also reflects the views of many cosmetic chemists. A petition opposing SCA 2010 can be found here.
SCA 2010 is unscientific, unworkable, and if passed as is, would likely cause widespread job loss in the cosmetics industry. Far from being a step in the right direction, it would be a leap into regulatory chaos, as well as targeting small businesses and natural products.
Yes, cosmetics could and should be safer, and cosmetics labeling in the USA does need more transparency. Safety can always be improved in any field, especially in the light of new scientific data, but SCA 2010 over-reaches what is needed to such an extent that, with the possible exception of distilled water, I cannot think of any cosmetic ingredient that would be acceptable under its terms.
These require that there is “data demonstrating that exposure to all sources of the ingredient or cosmetic present not more than 1 in a million risk for any adverse effect in the population of concernâ€. Unfortunately, “population of concern†is not defined, but SCA 2010 further states that, in establishing a safety standard, “no harm will be caused by aggregate exposure for a member of a vulnerable population to that ingredient or cosmetic.†“Vulnerable populations†are defined, and include “pregnant women, infants, children, the elderly, and people with compromised immune systems.†Would “infants†include pre-term babies? Would “people with compromised immune systems†include those who do not get sufficient sleep, or who suffer from frequent colds? Much of the wording of the bill is vague and open to many possible interpretations.
“Ingredient†includes every substance present in an ingredient “at levels above technically feasible detection limits.†This last phrase is not defined, but it could be as low as one part per billion (ppb, 0.0000001%) or one part per trillion (ppt, 0.0000000001%). SCA 2010 specifically mentions contaminants, and in foods and beverages they are commonly measured at these levels.
Most essential oils contain about 100 constituents. The above data – for example no more than 1 in a million risk – must be demonstrable for each one of these constituents. Otherwise, the essential oil may not be acceptable in cosmetics, according to the terms of the bill. I can think of of no substance, natural or synthetic, that is known to cause no adverse reaction of any kind in less than 1 in a million people. In human tests for skin reactions, there are sometimes data covering tens of thousands of patch tests. But, that’s still a long way from a million, and there is no cosmetic ingredient that, if patch tested on one million people, would cause no more than one reaction. Except for distilled water perhaps.
“Any adverse effect†is not defined, but is not as simple as it might seem. Linalool, for example, has caused CNS depression when inhaled by animals. (Alcohol is the classic CNS depressant – in large enough amounts, it causes loss of muscular control, slurred speech, stupor and other effects.) Linalool is one of the most common constituents of fragrant herbs and flowers, inhalation of which could therefore be regarded as hazardous under the vague terms of SCA 2010. In reality, linalool has no more than a mild calming, anti-anxiety effect when inhaled by humans. It’s one of the main constituents of lavender oil.
The issue of dose and concentration is not given much consideration. “The Secretary shall presume that any ingredient or cosmetic that induces cancer or birth defects or has reproductive or developmental toxicity when ingested by, inhaled by, or dermally applied to a human or an animal has failed to meet the safety standard.†This is a complete reinvention of the science of toxicology, which up until now has been based on the principle of dose and of threshold levels. Above certain amounts toxicity may occur, below them it will not. This is why there are permissible levels for substances such as hydrocyanic acid (â€cyanideâ€, restricted to 1 ppm) which naturally occurs in some foods.
There’s also the question of the interaction between the constituents of a natural substance. Basil herb, for example, contains two known carcinogens – estragole and methyleugenol. Pesto is a particularly concentrated form of basil, yet the WHO has determined that the amounts in basil/pesto are so small that they present no risk to humans. Since that ruling, research has been published demonstrating that basil herb contains anticarcinogenic substances that counter any potential toxicity of the two carcinogens, and is itself anticarcinogenic (Alhusainy et al 2010, Dasgupta et al 2004, Jeurissen et al 200
. Some basil essential oils have been shown to have anticarcinogenic effects (Aruna & Sivaramakrishnan 1996, Manosroi et al 2005).
Probable or known human carcinogens, such as acetaldehyde and benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) are ubiquitous in fruits, vegetables, dairy products, meat and fish at low ppb. I’m not saying this is a good thing, I’m just saying it’s a fact, and these foods are not regarded as dangerous, because the toxins are present in such minuscule amounts. BaP is one of the many carcinogens found in cigarette smoke, but it is also found in American drinking water at 0.2-2.0 ppb, and in olive oil at about 3 ppb. Olive oil is actually anticarcinogenic, because of its content of antioxidant polyphenols, squalene, β-sitosterol and linoleic acid (Sotiroudis & Kyrtopoulos 200
. It’s the same story with fruits and vegetables – they are generally anticarcinogenic due to a very much higher content of antitoxic substances.
Many essential oils, herb extracts and foods contain tiny amounts of single constituents that alone, and in substantial amounts, are known to be toxic, but the parent natural substance is not toxic. However, this scenario is not taken into consideration by the CFSC or EWG. These organizations are, wittingly or unwittingly, campaigning to have natural substances banned from use in cosmetics because of their “tunnel vision†and “parts per billion†approach to safety.
The thinking behind the wording of SCA 2010 is naive because there is an assumption that substances are either “safe†or “toxicâ€, and that if we simply eliminate the toxic ones from personal care products, the world will be a better place. It may seem like an excellent idea, but once you start talking about parts per million or lower, it is unnecessary and unrealistic. Not even foods are regulated to that degree, and our exposure to foods is far greater than our exposure to cosmetics.
SCA 2010 requires that every constituent or trace contaminant of every ingredient be listed onthe product label. This arguably discriminates against natural products, since their ingredient lists would have to include hundreds of substances, if they could be proved to be safe under the terms of the bill, and if there was some way of actually listing that many ingredients on a label. A product containing what would normally would be regarded as five ingredients – olive oil, blue chamomile extract, and essential oils of orange, rose and vetiver – would require an ingredient list looking something like this:
oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, squalene, hydroxytyrosol, tyrosol, oleuropein, ligstroside, elenolic acid, acetoxy-pinoresenol, oleocanthal, α-tocopherol, herniarin, hyperoside, umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, quercetin, rutin, flavanone, isorhamnetin, quercimeritin, anthemic acid, choline, triacontane, patuletin, patulitrin, apigetrin, apigenin-7-glucoside, apigenin-7-apiosylglucoside, luteolin-7-glucoside, apigetrin-7-acetylglucoside, luteolin-4-glucoside, luteolin, patuletin, matricin, matricarin, galacturonic acid, d-limonene, citronellol, geraniol, myrcene, linalool, α-pinene, sabinene, β-phellandrene, geranial, neral, decanal, citronellal, (Z)-β-ocimene, β-pinene, valencene, β-elemene, terpinolene, dodecanal, γ-terpinene, β-sinensal, α-sinensal, δ-cadinene, α-copaene, γ-muurolene, nerol, δ-3-carene, (Z)-3-hexenol, perillaldehyde, octanol, cis-sabinene hydrate, undecanal, nonadecane, heneicosane, 1-nonadecene, 2-phenylethanol, (E)-β-ocimene, methyleugenol, eugenol, 1-heptadecene, eicosane, trans-linalool oxide, β-caryophyllene, 1-tricosene, α-terpineol, α-farnesene, farnesyl acetate, citronellyl formate, pentadecane, α-guiaiene, benzaldehyde, (Z)-β-farnesene, terpinen-4-ol, geranyl acetate, isogeranyl acetate, farnesyl propionate, methyl salicylate, citronellyl acetate, hexanol, α-humulene, methyl geranate, α-terpinene, cis-rose oxide, isogeraniol, β-bergamotene, δ-2-carene, cis-linalool oxide, octadecane, heptadecane, α-phellandrene, cis-rose oxide, β-maaliene, ethyl benzoate, geranyl acetone, 3-methylbutanol, docosane, 1-heneicosene, p-cymene, 1-eicosene, bourbonene, γ-cadinene, hexadecane, 1-tricosene, octanal, nerolidol, 2-undecanone, benzyl benzoate, α-muurolene, 2-phenylethyl phenylacetate, farnesol, geranyl formate, guaiol, heptanal, allo-ocimene, 1-octadecene, 2-phenylethyl-3-methyl valerate, hexadecanol, hexanal, 3-hexenyl formate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, khusimol, vetiselinenol, cyclocopacamphan-12-ol (epimer A), α-cadinol, α-vetivone, β-vetivenene, β-eudesmol, β-vetivone, khusenic acid, β-vetispirene, γ-vetivenene, α-amorphene, (E)-eudesm-4(15),7-dien-12-ol, β-calacorene, (Z)-eudesm-6-en-11-ol, γ-amorphene ziza-5-en-12-ol, β-selinene, (Z)-eudesma-6,11-diene, salvial-4(14)-en-1-one, khusinol, cyclocopacamphan-12-ol (epimer B), selina-6-en-4-ol, khusian-ol, δ-amorphene, 1-epicubenol, khusimene, ziza-6(13)-en-3β-ol, ziza-6(13)-en-3-one, 2-epi-ziza-6(13)-en-3α-ol, 12-nor-ziza-6(13)-en-2β-ol, α-vetispirene, eremophila-1(10),7(11)-diene, dimethyl-6,7-bicyclo-[4.4.0]-deca-10-en-one, 10-epi-γ-eudesmol, α-calacorene, (E)-opposita-4(15),7(11)-dien12-ol, prekhusenic acid, 13-nor-eudesma-4,6-dien-11-one, isovalencenol, spirovetiva-1(10),7(11)-diene, 2-epi-ziza-6(13)-en-12-al, (E)-isovalencenal, preziza-7(15)-ene, (Z)-eudesma-6,11-dien-3β-ol, intermedeol, isoeugenol, isokhusenic acid, elemol, eremophila-1(10),6-dien-12-al, juniper camphor, khusimone, eremophila-1(10),4(15)-dien-2α-ol, eremophila-1(10),7(11)-dien-2β-ol, (Z)-isovalencenal, allo-khusiol, methyl-(E)-eremophila-1(10),7(11)-dien-12-ether, (E)-2-nor-zizaene, (Z)-eudesm-6-en-12-al, funebran-15-al
No contaminants have been shown here, only natural constituents of the five ingredients. Whether this list of 200 chemicals would be useful for consumers is debatable, and it would be one of the shorter lists, since most natural products contain much more than five ingredients. Even single synthetic chemicals are not really single chemicals at all – they also contain some minor and trace constituents. Most fragrance chemicals for example are about 95% pure, the other 5% consisting of “impurities†which of course would have to be listed. So synthetic chemicals are not exempt from this challenge.
This is one of the reasons that a naturally-occurring chemical is not the same as a synthetic one – the impurities present in the synthetic version. Synthetic coumarin, for example, causes skin allergies because of the impurities it contains (Vocanson 2006, 2007). But, SCA 2010 treats all chemicals of the same name as equal, which may be expedient if you are trying to pass legislation, but it’s not really scientific.
SCA 2010 proposes that hundreds of ingredients should be assessed for safety in unrealistically short amounts of time, with no proposal as to what form this assessment process will take, who will undertake the work, and exactly what criteria will be used. The wording of the bill shows very little understanding of either toxicology or cosmetics science. It also assumes that any existing legislation in other countries must be good legislation, when in fact nothing could be further from the truth.
I happen to believe that incremental legislation is generally a good thing. It at least allows for the possibility of public debate, and for finer points to be properly considered. Legislation as sweeping as SCA 2010 will cause chaos in the cosmetics industry, especially since States will be given the option to add further safety standards as they see fit. So, each State could have different standards – a manufacturer’s nightmare, and a pointless provision. Even without it, how any agency could enforce legislation involving hundreds of thousands of existing products, with hundreds of ingredients to consider for each one is mind-boggling.
SCA 2010 will cost unknown millions or billions of dollars which the consumer will ultimately pay for. It will probably have no more than a negligible effect on cosmetics safety, but it poses a serious threat to many businesses especially those making natural products, those supplying natural ingredients, and the farmers that grow the plants they come from.
SCA 2010 is especially onerous to small businesses (any corporation with a turnover of $7 million or less.) It requires each manufacturer to not only declare every constituent chemical of every ingredient on the label, but to also test each finished cosmetic to ensure that there is not even a trace amount of some toxic chemical that might have been formed during the making of the product. Most small personal care product businesses will not survive if SCA 2010 passes, a fact that may possibly be attractive to larger corporations.
However, the bill has been criticised by Lezlee Westine, President and CEO of the Personal Care Products Council, which represents the larger cosmetics companies. Her statement includes the following: “We are concerned that the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 as written is not based on credible and established scientific principles, would put an enormous if not impossible burden on FDA, and would create a mammoth new regulatory structure for cosmetics, parts of which would far exceed that of any other FDA-regulated product category including food or drugs. The measures the bill would mandate are likely unachievable even with the addition of hundreds of additional FDA scientists and millions more in funding and would not make a meaningful contribution to product safety.â€
The Skin Deep database, mentioned in the first paragraph, gives an insight into the thinking of the CFSC and EWG. Skin Deep exaggerates toxicity by being selective in its reporting. For example, limonene, the major constituent of citrus essential oils, is flagged as being developmentally toxic in large doses. This is true, since when pregnant mice were fed 2,363 mg/kg limonene by stomach tube on days 7-12 of gestation, there was an increase in the number of fetuses with skeletal anomalies and delayed ossification (Kodama et al 1977).
However, what is not stated by Skin Deep is that in the same report, when pregnant mice were given a lower dose, 591 mg/kg/day, there was no developmental toxicity. The higher dose is equivalent to daily human ingestion of 5.7 oz of limonene, and the lower dose is equivalent to 1.4 oz. If ingestion of 1.4 oz per day for 6 days is known to be non-fetotoxic, then there is no reason to believe that the use of limonene in cosmetics is likely to be in any way hazardous during pregnancy; in fact, quite the opposite (especially since stomach tube feeding generally increases toxicity).
The Skin Deep page on limonene also mentions, under “cancer†that“one or more tests on mammalian cells show positive mutation results.†One reference is given. However, this ignores the fact that eleven other studies found no evidence of mutagenicity or genotoxicity for limonene (Anderson et al 1990, Connor et al 1985, Florin et al 1980, Haworth et al 1983, Myhr et al 1990, Pienta 1980, Sasaki et al 1989, Sekihashi et al 2002, Turner et al 2001, Watabe et al 1980, 1981), and two further studies reported antimutagenic effects (De Oliveira et al 1997, Kim et al 2001). This 13:1 “score†is part of the weight of evidence used to assess risk in toxicology.
Mutagenicity testing is used to identify substances that may be carcinogenic. However, 85% of substances that are not in fact carcinogenic test positive in a least one mutagenicity test (Kirkland et al 2005). These are “false positivesâ€, and present no risk. The one study cited by Skin Deep for limonene is a false positive.
If you want to imply risk, it’s possible to do so simply by being selective about which facts you choose to report. Many small cosmetics manufacturers have become disenchanted with the manipulative ways of the CFSC and EWG. If they were sincere in caring about cosmetics safety they would welcome any pertinent opinions and facts, but they don’t. They either ignore or stridently oppose anything that does not accord with their fear-driven political agenda. It’s a shame, because a few of their concerns are genuine and well-founded, but their focus has become highly distorted.
I urge you to oppose the Safe Cosmetics Act 2010. Here are some steps you can take.
References
Alhusainy W, Paini A, Punt A et al 2010 Identification of nevadensin as an important herb-based constituent inhibiting estragole bioactivation and physiology-based biokinetic modeling of its possible in vivo effect. Toxicology & Applied Pharmacology 245:179-190
Anderson BE, Zeiger E, Shelby MD et al 1990 Chromosome aberration and sister chromatid exchange test results with 42 chemicals. Environmental & Molecular Mutagenesis 16(Suppl. 1
:55-137
Aruna K, Sivaramakrishnan VM 1996 Anticarcinogenic effects of the essential oils from cumin, poppy and basil. Phytotherapy Research 10:577-580
Connor TH, Theiss JC, Hanna HA et al 1985 Genotoxicity of organic chemicals frequently found in the air of mobile homes. Toxicology Letters 25:33-40
Dasgupta T, Rao AR, Yadava PK 2004 Chemomodulatory efficacy of basil leaf (Ocimum basilicum) on drug metabolizing and antioxidant enzymes, and on carcinogen-induced skin and forestomach papillomagenesis. Phytomedicine 11:139-151
De Oliveira AC, Ribeiro-Pinto LF, Paumgartten FJ 1997 In vitro inhibition of CYP2B1 monooxygenase by b-myrcene and other monoterpenoid compounds. Toxicology Letters 92:39-46
Florin I, Rutberg L, Curvall M et al 1980 Screening of tobacco smoke constituents for mutagenicity using the Ames test. Toxicology 15:219-232
Haworth S, Lawlor T, Mortelmans K et al 1983 Salmonella mutagenicity test results for 250 chemicals. Environmental Mutagenesis 5:3-38
Jeurissen SM, Punt A, Delatour T et al 2008 Basil extract inhibits the sulfotransferase mediated formation of DNA adducts of the procarcinogen 1′-hydroxyestragole by rat and human liver S9 homogenates and in HepG2 human hepatoma cells. Food & Chemical Toxicology 46:2296-2302
Kim MH, Chung WT, Kim YK et al 2001 The effect of the oil of Agastache rugosa O. Kuntze and three of its components on human cancer cell lines. Journal of Essential Oil Research 13:214-218
Kirkland D, Aardema M, Henderson L et al 2005 Evaluation of the ability of a battery of three in vitro genotoxicity tests to discriminate rodent carcinogens and non-carcinogens I. Sensitivity, specificity and relative predictivity. Mutation Research 584:1-256
Kodama, R, Okubo A, Araki E et al 1977 Studies on d-limonene as a gallstone solubilizer (VII). Effects on development of mouse fetuses and offspring. Oyo Yakuri 13:863-873
Manosroi J, Dhumtanom P, Manosroi A 2005 Anti-proliferative activity of essential oil extracted from Thai medicinal plants on KB and P388 cell lines. Cancer Letters 235:114-120
Myhr B, McGregor D, Bowers L et al 1990 L5178Y Mouse lymphoma cell mutation assay results with 41 compounds. Environmental & Molecular Mutagenesis 16(Suppl 1
:138-167
Pienta R J 1980 Evaluation and relevance of the Syrian hamster embryo cell system. Applied Methods in Oncology 3:149-169
Sasaki YF, Imanishi H, Ohta T et al 1989 Modifying effects of components of plant essence on the induction of sister-chromatid exchanges in cultured Chinese hamster ovary cells. Mutation Research 226:103-110
Sekihashi A, Yamamoto A, Matsumura Y et al 2002 Comparative investigation of multiple organs of mice and rats in the comet assay. Mutation Research 517:53-74
Sotiroudis TG, Kyrtopoulos SA 2008 Anticarcinogenic compounds of olive oil and related biomarkers. European Journal of Nutrition 47:69-72
Turner SD, Tinwell H, Piegorsch W et al 2001 The male rat carcinogens limonene and sodium saccharin are not mutagenic to male Big Blue rats. Mutagenesis 16:329-332
Vocanson M, Goujon C, Chabeau G et al 2006 The skin allergenic properties of chemicals may depend on contaminants – evidence from studies on coumarin. International Archives of Allergy & Immunology 140:231-238
Vocanson M, Valeyrie M, Rozières A et al 2007 Lack of evidence for allergenic properties of coumarin in a fragrance allergy mouse model. Contact Dermatitis 57:361-364
Watabe T, Hiratsuka A, Isobe M et al 1980 Metabolism of d-limonene by hepatic microsomes to non-mutagenic epoxides toward Salmonella typhimurium. Biochemical Pharmacology 29:1068-1071
Watabe T, Hiratsuka A, Ozawa N et al 1981 A comparative study on the metabolism of d-limonene and 4-vinylcyclohex-1-ene by hepatic microsomes. Xenobiotica 11(5):333-344
Robert Tisserand is internationally recognised for his pioneering work in many aspects of aromatherapy since 1969.
Posted by Blogmistress on August 17, 2010 in Cosmetics, Essential Oils/Plant Extractions, Regulatory Issues, Safety/Toxicity | Permalink
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Comments
The larger problem we are facing is that we have "tested" and deemed "safe" tens of thousands of chemicals on animals only to find that the many results are not accurate in humans. It's time to use human-relevant non-animal testing practices as outlined by the National Academy of Sciences report, "Toxicity Testing in the 21st Century: A Vision and a Strategy in 2007."
The potential for chemical reform is quite exciting, but it should be done in a way that doesn’t sacrifice millions of animals (for toxicity testing) in the name of better protection for human health. We need Congress to mandate and create market incentives to use nonanimal methods and tests.
Posted by: Max | Aug 19, 2010 12:43:16 PM
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Contribute to the Lobbying Effort to Defeat the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 - SCA2010Contribute to the Lobbying Effort to Defeat the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 - SCA2010
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Desserts - photo by Noam Dehan
5 tiered tea tray - Photo by Shawn NygrenHere are some images and notes about my last tea party August 8th. This party was dedicated to the awesomeness of summer!!!
This weekend was the very middle of the summer, so I thought there's no better way to celebrate that with yet another fabulous tea party, great company of the local perfumistas and sensualists, to whom I prepared the full spread of tea treats, homemade baked goods and tea sandwiches and canapes, all made of market-fresh ingredients grown locally.
The Dancing Leaf Design + Ayala Moriel Parfums display - Photo by Shawn NygrenI was also very honoured to host my dear friend and uber-talented artist Noriko Kobune of Dancing Leaf Designs with her beautiful Japanese beading jewelry. Noriko was at the event in person, helped me put together the most beautiful display ever and summery flower arrangements. She brought her collection with her one-of-a-kind pieces, some of which you can view on her blog. Keep in mind that they are 100 times more adorable in person, and 200 times better when worn.
THE NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK: BATH & BODY PRODUCTS
I used the party as an opportunity to reveal to my guests and local devoted clientele my upcoming body care line, which will be launched in the fall. The guests were privy to these luxurious yet light-weight anointing body oils, sugar scrubs and revitalizing bath salts with tantalizing aromas that I try to make as original as my perfumes. These were offered for sale for the first time in affordable trial-size packaging during the party, and will be posted online as soon as a few last details are figured out (i.e.: pricing, photos and ad copy).
Nourishing sugar scrubs
Anointing body oils
Ritual bath salts (new, bigger and better packacing, with a wooden scoop to boot) THE PEOPLE
Noriko and Keiko - Photo by Shawn Nygren 
Guests at the party - photo by Shawn Nygren 
Guests at the party - photo by Shawn Nygren More photos here.
THE PRESENTATION
Scents from the Ocean: Creating Orcas perfume
In this presentation, the guests got exposed to essences that come from the ocean or that have salty and oceanic qualities, such as: seaweed essential oil, ambergris tincture, oakmoss absolute and choya nakh.
I also let them have a sniff-peak at some of the different mods of some of my secret project perfumes, including a perfume that represents the scents of New Orleans before Katrina; and of Orcas - my upcoming natural marine scent inspired by the scenery of Tofino.
THE MENUE
Tea Selection:
Charisma Tea House Blend
Wild Chrysanthemum served with fresh mint over crushed ice and a few drops of agave syrup (courtesy of Dao Tea)
Jungjak Green Tea served over crushed blackberries and crushed ice (courtesy of Dao Tea)
Lavender Earl Gray
Other beverages:
White Wine & Tea Sangria with Magnolia & Pomegranate White Tea (from Shaktea tea)
Homemade Limoncello
Roasted beet and blue cheese sandwiches - photo by Noam Dehan Tier 1:
Tea Sandwiches & Savouries
Cucumber + Mint tea sandwiches
Polenta with tomato + Basil + Bocconcini ***
Roasted Beets + Chèvre + Raspberry Chipotle Tea Sandwiches
Tier 2: Scones
Lavender-Rosemary Scones
Served with Devonshire Cream + Raspberry and apricot jams by Preserved BC Sunshine
Scones - photograph by Noam Dehan Tier 3: Fresh Seasonal Fruit Platter
Cherries **
Apricots **
Fresh Rhubarb Compote **
Desserts - photograph by Noam Dehan Tier 4: Desserts & Petit Fours Jasmine Tea Tarts with Lemon Curd & Fresh Basil
Brownies with Raspberry Sauce **
Classic Madeleines (vanilla bean and lemon zest)
Tier 5:
Black Summer Truffles*
Guilt Truffles (orange blossom and wild orange)*
Saffron Robe Truffles (saffron salt and orange flower)*
* Wheat free
** Wheat and dairy free
*** Dairy and/or wheat free substitute options available upon request
Video of the Day: Womanity, a nova Fragrância de Thierry Mugler / Womanity, the new Thierry Mugler's fragrance
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Life is a waving feather., originally uploaded by Olivia Bee.
We start from the top notes, which are easy and accessible, as they are very fleeting and familiar– citrus notes such as grapefruit and blood orange. Spices like star anise and fresh ginger root. Eliza surprises me with picking up lavender and telling me how much she loves it. Most people finds it calming and relaxing and associate it with the feeling of well-being. Here’s a twist and a turn to what I thought would be an herb-free perfume… She also likes rosewood, which shares some similarities with lavender, but is more light and floral and “perfumeyâ€.
I was sure Eliza will love all the heart notes, but she ended up being more a base note gal. I knew she’s going to love rose and jasmine (and she did), but I was surprised she did not like tuberose and orange blossom, even though she was extremely smitten with the Neroli! Another two surprises where her immediate connection and ease with more quirky essences, namely geranium and boronia… Both essences which I would have not thought of to begin with, and haven’t put them in my initial “sketch†for the perfume.
Moving to the base notes, we complied quite an overwhelming collection of notes. All the woodsy notes drew Eliza in like magic – sandalwood, agarwood, amyris, hinoki, frankincense… Everything woody seems to invoke a dreamy expression on her face as if she just found a vintage fabric she forgot she had and now she can finally find a use for it. But locally growing trees like fir and cedarwood made her even more excited.
This is why it’s so important to do the olfactory journey session, even though it takes a long time, through this process the client unlocks memories and discovers essences that played a big part of their lives but are long forgotten, or discovers new loves. And from the perfumer’s point of view, the seemingly random array of notes that the client picks poses a challenge. How can they work together? And will they work together? Which fragrance family could they belong to, if at all? These strange combinations, the imperfections so to speak, the most challenging pairings, are what make a perfume interesting and can make the whole difference between just another pretty smelling thing to a work of art.
Tomorrow I will be bringing all the essences we hand-picked in the 1st round last week, and we will sniff through them again to pick the ones that resonate most with Eliza and the spirit of Gentille Alouette. We have no more and no less than 30 essences that were chosen in the 1st round, so there is a lot of wonderful smells to go through. And this time I’m even more curious to see what stories and expressions they will bring out this session, because it will be a lot more focused.
I was sure Eliza will love all the heart notes, but she ended up being more a base note gal. I knew she’s going to love rose and jasmine (and she did), but I was surprised she did not like tuberose and orange blossom, even though she was extremely smitten with the Neroli! Another two surprises where her immediate connection and ease with more quirky essences, namely geranium and boronia… Both essences which I would have not thought of to begin with, and haven’t put them in my initial “sketch†for the perfume.
Moving to the base notes, we complied quite an overwhelming collection of notes. All the woodsy notes drew Eliza in like magic – sandalwood, agarwood, amyris, hinoki, frankincense… Everything woody seems to invoke a dreamy expression on her face as if she just found a vintage fabric she forgot she had and now she can finally find a use for it. But locally growing trees like fir and cedarwood made her even more excited.
This is why it’s so important to do the olfactory journey session, even though it takes a long time, through this process the client unlocks memories and discovers essences that played a big part of their lives but are long forgotten, or discovers new loves. And from the perfumer’s point of view, the seemingly random array of notes that the client picks poses a challenge. How can they work together? And will they work together? Which fragrance family could they belong to, if at all? These strange combinations, the imperfections so to speak, the most challenging pairings, are what make a perfume interesting and can make the whole difference between just another pretty smelling thing to a work of art.
Tomorrow I will be bringing all the essences we hand-picked in the 1st round last week, and we will sniff through them again to pick the ones that resonate most with Eliza and the spirit of Gentille Alouette. We have no more and no less than 30 essences that were chosen in the 1st round, so there is a lot of wonderful smells to go through. And this time I’m even more curious to see what stories and expressions they will bring out this session, because it will be a lot more focused.
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Rimmel Extreme Definition Ultimate Lash Seperating Mascara
Extreme Definition Lash Separating Comb Mascara - To get lashes as individual as you are.
The unique fine-toothed comb applicator glides effortlessly through lashes, capturing each and every one, for ultimate lash separation and
Rimmel Extreme Definition Ultimate Lash Seperating Mascara
Bare natural makeup
SMM is proud to serve their clients online and to give you the chance to bring out your natural bare skin beauty without the high price tag of the national brands and fancy boutique labels.
SMM's mineral makeup is 100% pure bare
Bare natural makeup
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August 26, 2010
Be unexpected
Be unexpected
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Prom Queen for a day
Loreal Eye Highlighter Line and Shadow Pencil
PNG Loreal Golden Green shades Colors on my hand... Loreal Eye makeup Shadow 1 on upper lash line as well as on lower lash line.
Loreal Eye makeup Shadow 2 on eye lids.
Loreal Eye makeup Shadow 3 as highlighter.
Loreal Eye makeup With eye liner.
the eye socket; Finally apply colour 3, the lightest shade, under the brow bone and in the inner corner of the eyes as a highlighter; For an even more intense look, start by outlining your eyes with a Contour Khôl eye pencil
Loreal Eye Highlighter Line and Shadow Pencil
Borghese Cura di Vita Protettivo Protective Moisturizer SPF 15 1 Fl Oz
Borghese Cura di Vita Protettivo Protective Moisturizer SPF 15 1 Fl Oz.
Clarins Sun Wrinkle Control Cream For Face SPF 15.
Practice safe sun with this lightweight, non-oily cream for face that helps safeguard skin from the hazards of
Borghese Cura di Vita Protettivo Protective Moisturizer SPF 15 1 Fl Oz
Almay natural makeup
I have really dark brown eyes.
What kind of eye makeup should I use.
I also have tan skin and dark hair, if that helps.
Purple will make them eyes pop if that's what you want try Almay.
August 22, 2010 at 6.
I'd say because you're tanned to go for "barely there".
You're sunkissed, and make people think of warm places, where there are beaches and large bodies of water, and naturally beautiful women.
Wear minimal eyeliner, only at the
Almay natural makeup
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August 25, 2010
Do B'noters think that melon and cucumber scents or scented body washes are feminiine?
Borghese Complesso Intensivo Intensive Age Defying Complex 1 7 Fl Oz
Borghese Complesso Intensivo Intensive Age Defying Complex 1.
Borghese, Complesso, Complex, Defying, Intensive, Intensivo.
Siero Intensivo Intensive Firming Serum 44ml/1
Borghese Complesso Intensivo Intensive Age Defying Complex 1 7 Fl Oz
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Must Read, Must Act
Must Read, Must Act
Rimmel Extreme Definition Ultimate Lash Seperating Mascara
Signature Ultimate Mascara by Mary Kay - adds great length and volume.
a little clumping, but you can easily work with it if you know how.
The most expensive I have ($15) because i'm not brave enough to spend $20 something on Lancome, .
I wud have to say i havent found my favorite yet but right now im using maybelline lash extentions the double ended mascara which is amazing i love and and im also using rimmel lash maxxx which is awsome too but i wud rlly like to try
Rimmel Extreme Definition Ultimate Lash Seperating Mascara
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Ask the Perfumer is waiting for questions on this hot, humid mid-August day. Wear some refreshing cologne and post your queries and I'll answer up to 10PM tonight.
Love Boat: smell bent Leisure Cruise Part Deux
Love Boat: smell bent Leisure Cruise Part Deux
Cosmetic foundation
Iman, after thirty years in the fashion and beauty biz, now has her own super-successful make-up line.
Launched in 1994, her line features foundation available in 16 shades geared towards women of color
Cosmetic foundation
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August 24, 2010
By Marie-Helene "May" Wagner
The Long and Winding Road
The Long and Winding Road
Rimmel Mascara
With special thanks to Elle Singapore Tried & Tested, i got to tried out this mascara from Rimmel - Forever Shape Super Long Mascara in Ultra Black 001.
Collected the item on Friday & here i am to do a review on it now
Rimmel Mascara
Benefit makeup
How Does Aloe Vera Benefit You.
Did you know that the juice of the Aloe Vera one of the packaged food and liquid biologically alive on the planet.
Virtually no natural plants can beat the
Benefit makeup
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